After all this time, I think my issue is caused from HOT carbon spots in combustion chamber and on top of piston causing pre-ignition.
My original post somewhat is below to describe my symptoms after looking at pictures.
Thoughts from picts anyone?
This plug is only a few days use of riding hard and HOT.
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I dropped the other, so only can show one in case marks etc were from driveway. Also got the tops of the pistons. Man do they look carbon coated. Can only imagine the combustion chamber and it's HOT spots.
Piston 1
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Piston 2
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Symptons...
As some might have seen some of my posts before... after my engine gets to 200 degrees, especially on a hot day, all of a sudden the engine makes a very loud mechanical noise while riding. The idle will change while riding also, and will notice when stop at light, because will have to re-adjust my mukini idle at stop lights and signs etc, one time idle might be low, next time, will be high, and will re-adjust.
After replacing lifters (could have been collapsing, valves slapping back), thinking they went bad which didn't solve any issues. I read an article somewhere to try and turn the ignition module counter clockwise to retard my screaming eagle ignition module. I did that and the noise went way down.
When touching the ignition housing, it feels rubbery, pliable, and soft, when engine is really HOT.
1. Does this sound like a detonation or pinging symptom? Can't remember the difference between the two.
2. Could ignition module be going bad? Have been using it for several years. Or is the screaming eagle module not the ideal cone module to use for my setup as shown in my signature.
3. Checked my voes and it engages/works at 5.5 inches of vacuum.
Hot 0.590" prowler cams, ported 883 heads from branch, 10.1 compression, and 30 degree domes pistons, vance and hines straight shot exhaust, screaming eagle hi performance coil, screaming eagle wires, and regular stock spark plugs.
EVERYTHING is fine before engine warms up to 200 farenhite, measured via engine oil dipstick. Using Amsoil synthetic also, which when is hot, would be even thinner that petri oil maybe, reducing oil pressure. Because I seen the oil pressure light come on a few times at idle after riding, but idle was kinda low.
if is pre-ignition from HOT carbon spots, is there any way to help remove without taking heads off? Have used se-foam. Might try cold water also.
Thanks for any feedback!
:xlrocks
My original post somewhat is below to describe my symptoms after looking at pictures.
Thoughts from picts anyone?
This plug is only a few days use of riding hard and HOT.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]I dropped the other, so only can show one in case marks etc were from driveway. Also got the tops of the pistons. Man do they look carbon coated. Can only imagine the combustion chamber and it's HOT spots.
Piston 1
[IMG]
[/IMG]Piston 2
Symptons...
As some might have seen some of my posts before... after my engine gets to 200 degrees, especially on a hot day, all of a sudden the engine makes a very loud mechanical noise while riding. The idle will change while riding also, and will notice when stop at light, because will have to re-adjust my mukini idle at stop lights and signs etc, one time idle might be low, next time, will be high, and will re-adjust.
After replacing lifters (could have been collapsing, valves slapping back), thinking they went bad which didn't solve any issues. I read an article somewhere to try and turn the ignition module counter clockwise to retard my screaming eagle ignition module. I did that and the noise went way down.
When touching the ignition housing, it feels rubbery, pliable, and soft, when engine is really HOT.
1. Does this sound like a detonation or pinging symptom? Can't remember the difference between the two.
2. Could ignition module be going bad? Have been using it for several years. Or is the screaming eagle module not the ideal cone module to use for my setup as shown in my signature.
3. Checked my voes and it engages/works at 5.5 inches of vacuum.
Hot 0.590" prowler cams, ported 883 heads from branch, 10.1 compression, and 30 degree domes pistons, vance and hines straight shot exhaust, screaming eagle hi performance coil, screaming eagle wires, and regular stock spark plugs.
EVERYTHING is fine before engine warms up to 200 farenhite, measured via engine oil dipstick. Using Amsoil synthetic also, which when is hot, would be even thinner that petri oil maybe, reducing oil pressure. Because I seen the oil pressure light come on a few times at idle after riding, but idle was kinda low.
if is pre-ignition from HOT carbon spots, is there any way to help remove without taking heads off? Have used se-foam. Might try cold water also.
Thanks for any feedback!
:xlrocks