Yes, this is a re-post. The original thread lost the pictures (service provider related) and the pict's I put on Shutterfly weren't as nice.
Sorry it took so long to get the pictures back.
T Mack
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Here are pict's on how I mounted 2006 Forward's on my 1986. Other than brake linkage and the 4 speed side case gear shift lever, you should be able to do this on other years.
NOTE: If you have drag pipes, and if they don't have the brake stop bracket, you will need to Fab one or buy one from J&P cycle.
What I paid for
-$80 plus $30 S&H for 2006 HD fwd's on eBay. included the original brake & shifter linkages and bolts. I didn't use the brake linkage.
-$39.80 (include sale tax & S&H) for the V-Twin Mfg, 86-90 fwd cntrl tranny shift lever.
- Extended nut to fit the Al-Thread (3/8"in diam) , note: matches the HD mounting bolts for the Fwd Cntrls. This is used to stiffen up the pegs.
- Bolts to mount plates, less than $20.
- Bolts to replace the Mid control mount Studs. right & left sides.
What I had in my stash:
- Heim Joint, 5/16"-24. (these can be bought on eBay).
- Al-thread. (threaded rod)
- 5/16" metal rod for brake linkage.
- 3 spacers (cut off steel pipe) to space the plates on the right side since the stock motor mount is on the inside of the frame and the plate needs to be on the outside.
- steel flat stock to make the plates. Used 1/4" but 3/8" might have been better.
- small length of 3/8 in chrome pipe (plumbing supplies) for brake stop adjuster.
- Misc nuts & bolts.
Mod's or fab work.
1) Make the two plates that bolt on to the existing front lower motor mounts. Use cardboard to get shape and hole placement. I used a friends band saw and table belt sander to do the cutting and smoothing them out.
2) Muffler brake stop bracket hole has to be drilled out to 3/8" hole to fit the brake linkage rod. Note: You can go back to MID's and the stop bolt can be used with washers or buy a 3/8" bolt to fit the larger hole.
3) Brake linkages, bent the 5/16" rod and thread ends. One end for the Hiem joint, the other for the brake master cylinder plunger. On the '86 it's 5/16"-24. Chrome pipe is used as a stop adjustment and has to be cut to desired size.
4) Shifter linkage has to be shortened (approx 1/4 to 1/2 inch each side) and the threads tapped to extend them and the rod was bent to clear clutch cable. Note: both ends of the threaded rod are standard threads.
5) Cut Al-thread to fit between mounting plates. Needs to be slightly shorter than the distance between plates. The extened nuts will take up the distance. Also use some lock /jam nuts to keep it all nice & tight. This stiffens the plates.
The Pict's. feel free to save them to your computer. It's always handy to re-look at them.
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Note the spacers that are needed to get the mounting plate on the outside of the right side frame.
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[/QUOTE]
Sorry it took so long to get the pictures back.
T Mack
---------------------------------------------------------
Here are pict's on how I mounted 2006 Forward's on my 1986. Other than brake linkage and the 4 speed side case gear shift lever, you should be able to do this on other years.
NOTE: If you have drag pipes, and if they don't have the brake stop bracket, you will need to Fab one or buy one from J&P cycle.
What I paid for
-$80 plus $30 S&H for 2006 HD fwd's on eBay. included the original brake & shifter linkages and bolts. I didn't use the brake linkage.
-$39.80 (include sale tax & S&H) for the V-Twin Mfg, 86-90 fwd cntrl tranny shift lever.
- Extended nut to fit the Al-Thread (3/8"in diam) , note: matches the HD mounting bolts for the Fwd Cntrls. This is used to stiffen up the pegs.
- Bolts to mount plates, less than $20.
- Bolts to replace the Mid control mount Studs. right & left sides.
What I had in my stash:
- Heim Joint, 5/16"-24. (these can be bought on eBay).
- Al-thread. (threaded rod)
- 5/16" metal rod for brake linkage.
- 3 spacers (cut off steel pipe) to space the plates on the right side since the stock motor mount is on the inside of the frame and the plate needs to be on the outside.
- steel flat stock to make the plates. Used 1/4" but 3/8" might have been better.
- small length of 3/8 in chrome pipe (plumbing supplies) for brake stop adjuster.
- Misc nuts & bolts.
Mod's or fab work.
1) Make the two plates that bolt on to the existing front lower motor mounts. Use cardboard to get shape and hole placement. I used a friends band saw and table belt sander to do the cutting and smoothing them out.
2) Muffler brake stop bracket hole has to be drilled out to 3/8" hole to fit the brake linkage rod. Note: You can go back to MID's and the stop bolt can be used with washers or buy a 3/8" bolt to fit the larger hole.
3) Brake linkages, bent the 5/16" rod and thread ends. One end for the Hiem joint, the other for the brake master cylinder plunger. On the '86 it's 5/16"-24. Chrome pipe is used as a stop adjustment and has to be cut to desired size.
4) Shifter linkage has to be shortened (approx 1/4 to 1/2 inch each side) and the threads tapped to extend them and the rod was bent to clear clutch cable. Note: both ends of the threaded rod are standard threads.
5) Cut Al-thread to fit between mounting plates. Needs to be slightly shorter than the distance between plates. The extened nuts will take up the distance. Also use some lock /jam nuts to keep it all nice & tight. This stiffens the plates.
The Pict's. feel free to save them to your computer. It's always handy to re-look at them.
Note the spacers that are needed to get the mounting plate on the outside of the right side frame.
[/QUOTE]